Enjoying God's Goodness: Estrella del Camino in Fromista

The full moon helped light the path when we left from Castrojeriz this morning at 7:00. It looked huge over the ridge we would climb just a bit later as the sun came up. We walked through town and through the countryside for a few km before we started the strenuous climb onto the Meseta. The morning view over the valley behind us was stunning....fog in the riverbed and sun coming up with brilliant yellows and pinks. Had to stay focused on breathing deeply and watching where I was going. At the top there was a cross, a memorial and a neat little hut just in case the weather turns bad.
We were not up there long before it was time to make a steep decent. Wind farms were off in the distance in 2-3 directions.

By then the sun was out and we were in a fairly flat valley, walking through grain fields, sunflower fields, sycamore tree farm, vegetable fields...a wide variety of crops. Just before we crossed the River Pisuerga from Burgos providence into Palencia providence, we came upon a wonderful little gem...Ermita de San Nicolas. It is an Albergue with no electricity or phone. The 13th Century building has been restored by an Italian Confraternity. It was made to look like a church with a beautiful window and alter at one end, a huge table nicely set (dinner and breakfast served) and beds to the back and in the loft. Really nicely done and very welcoming. Candlelight would be so soothing in this beautiful setting. So cool. No charge - donations accepted.

We took a short break by a fountain in Itero de la Vega and continued on to Boadilla del Camino, climbing up and over another Meseta. We stopped for a hot lunch in this little town which used to be 2000 but is now down to 200. The reawakening of the Camino is breathing new life into the community so the tide is turning. Over lunch we met a young man from Italy who was traveling along and carrying his own food (money was tight). His pack was half his body weight if I heard him correctly. He was disillusioned with life in Italy...the government, low wages, lack of good jobs. He
had some kind of physical disability and was only traveling 10 to 15 km a day, but was determined to

make it to Santiago. We also encountered a doctor from England, born in South Africa. He seemed pretty angry and disillusioned with the way people on the Camino were treating him....not the locals - the pilgrims. He plans to write a book about his experience on the Camino and the prejudice he has encountered.

Not far out of town on another farm track we came to the Canal de Castilla. It flowed the rest of the way to Fromista and we walked along it all the way. It was a peaceful tree-lined path. This 18th Century canal provided transportation for crops back then. Now it is restricted to irrigation and leisure. Along the canal we came across a flock of sheep eating off the bushes In a field next to The Way. A rugged shepherd was sitting in the shade with his three sheep dogs close by.

The town of Fromista is best known for the beautiful 11th Century Islesia de San Martin church - one of the finest examples of pure Romanesque in Spain. Very pretty, but it wasn't open, so I could see inside.

We had heard about the Albergue Estella del Camino from another innkeeper earlier on our journey, so we looked for it in Fromista. It is quite new, has great facilities, and wonderful gardens - so we were glad we could get a bunkbed for the night. We are planning to have a Pilgrim Plate at a restaurant close by and then check out a guitar concert at a church in town.

My shins are still sore, but I think they are improving. It really hurt coming down the two descents today. Andy has not had blisters or shin problems but after a few hours of walking his feet just ache. By the end of the walk each day, he is ready for a nice siesta. Praying for these physical needs...