ELast night after a nice supper on the city square in front of the Iglesias de Santa Maria we went to a pilgrims mass in the church. I think the church is pretty on the outside and the rose gardens out back are wonderful, but the sanctuary itself has been overdone...it's gaudy. But, we did enjoy the service. We were prayed for and given a copy of the prayer. Was very encouraging.
We read it at lunch today and talked about it a bit on the way...
PRAYER OF THE PILGRIMS
Lord, you who recalled your servant Abraham out of the town Ur in Chaldea and who watched over him during all his wanderings; you who guided the Jewish people through the desert; we also query to watch your present servants, who for the love of your name, make a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
Be for us,
A companion on our journey
The guide on our intersections
The strengthening during fatigue
The fortress in danger
The resource on our itinerary
The shadow for our heat
The light in our darkness
The consolation during dejection
And the power of our intention
So that we under your guidance, safety and unhurt, may reach the end of our journey and strengthened with gratitude and power, secure and filled with happiness, may join our home.
For Jesus Christ, Our Lord. Amen
We slept well last night in a small room. Andy and I had the upper bunks with a very large German man and a quiet man from Iceland under us. When we got back from the church service the very large German was laying on his bunk, hands behind his head in just his very small, tight striped briefs. Took me by surprise be he was not put off a bit. Oh, the joys.
We were up early, ate our blueberry muffins (almost like home), bananas, and water and took off in the dark at 6:45. It was a long walk today - 17.8 miles up and down hills and vales. The sun came up about 7:30 - was a pretty sunrise. We enjoyed lots of sweeping vistas through the morning. Really amazing. Pictures do not do them justice...you just cannot fill in the extent of the panoramic beauty. Over the morning we gained 1000 feet in elevation and went through 5 small towns before we stopped for lunch in Viana at 11:00.
In Torres del Rio Plaza there is another "exquisite 12th Century church, Iglesias de Santo Maria Sepulcro, linked with the Knights Templar and based on the octagonal church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem." Outside of town there was a nice neat little enclosed cemetery. Couldn't get in to see how old the graves were.
We had lunch by the city square in Viana not far from another Iglesia de Santa Maria 13th Century church and across from the town hall. Quite a nice view to eat our cheese sandwiches and apples. The historic centre has changed little since the medieval pilgrims plodded through its ancient streets. It looked to us like the city must have an annual bull run as the key corners were protected by about 6 by six posts securely anchored in the ground. Check your history books - Cesare Borgia was linked to this town Wish we could have taken more time to look around but we were weary and still had to walk 6-7 miles to Logrono.
We made it to Logrono by 1:45...we made 2 stops along the way, so made it just about 6 hours walking...3:00 mph is not too bad considering the hills. We took showers, washed clothes and hung them to dry. Andy took a nap and I checked email, posted pics,and wrote on this blog. It is getting chilly at night - into the 50s so a fleece feels good at night when we go for supper. We walked around the old historic part of town, visited the huge cathedral (also Santa Maria) and had a nice pilgrims plate for supper. My dessert tonight was cream puffs with chocolate sauce...very tasty. Andy had flan. I'm going to finish this up and head for bed by about 9:30 - an attempt to fall asleep before the snoring starts. We are in a nice room with out 16 other people. It is another municipal Albergue tonight.
One of the things we noticed today was that once again we were feeling superior as we saw 3-4 pilgrims with just day packs on...Andy called it Camino Lite. Walking with a day pack and having your luggage delivered to your next hotel. To do this the whole Camino is $8 to 10 thousand dollars for two people. We checked into it when we were first thing about the Camino and I didn't think I could handle a 15 pound pack. So far so good on the pack. Not so good with the pride that comes with it?
Another thing I noticed was that I am finding the good in many of the things we are doing....saying things like, "That wasn't so bad." Or, "That hill wasn't as bad as the steep one yesterday." At the end of the day, "That didn't seem as long as the 5 KM at the end of the day going to Larrasoana." Am I fooling myself or is it really getting easier the more we do it? I really am trying to be grateful for the little things along The Way. Why does Andy just laugh?!?
I must admit I am having some trouble with my feet. Yesterday the 3 smaller toes on my left foot felt really smashed and I didn't want to whine, so I just endured. When we started out today it was already feeling that way so I mentioned it. Immediately Andy asked, "Did you loosen your shoelaces? Our feet are swelling and it would probably make sense to do that." I had a great big DUH moment. I loosened them and it seemed to go better. Unfortunately the damage was already done and I found a big section of skin loose on one toe. I am going to let it dry out tonight and wrap it in the morning. It didn't hurt while walking today...hope it doesn't tomorrow. We plan to leave by 6:30 as it is 18.7 miles tomorrow to Najera. We are in a different province now, walking out of Navarre and into La Rioja at the city limits of Logrono.
We have noticed that a lot of the churches along the way have locked doors....do not enter it seems to say. Lots of other churches charge for you to go in OR they charge a fee to have the lights on in the church for 2-5 minutes. Interesting...
Lots of snails....kind of makes me think of Pilgrims - carrying all they need on their back!
Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro in the village of Torres del Rio. The church was associated with the Knights Templar.
Entrance info theld town of Viana.
The Town Hall on the Plaza de Los Fueros.
The central fountain in the square.
We ate right on the Camino across fron the square.
Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda
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