Thursday, September 12, 2013

Najera to Santo Domingo

Was a short day today - only 13 miles.  We slept well last night...until about 5:00 am that is.  Then the snoring really got loud and a lot of people started stirring.  We decided to just get up and get going - we were not going to sleep any more.  We're on the road in the dark by 6:00.  I bought some jelly packets so we had typical long loaf of skinny bread...enough for bread and jelly for breakfast and 2 cheese sandwiches for lunch.  Not much variety when you don't want to carry much more weight.

The walkout of town was up, up, up.  Had to use a little flashlight to watch for the Camino signs until the sun came up around 7:15.  Didn't make good time, but it was cool and quiet, except for a few roosters crowing.  In one very small town we heard a dog barking and are convinced that everyone in town heard the dog.  Stopped for coffee in Azofra and the cafe owner had THE biggest crescent rolls I have ever seen.  They had to be 10 inches across and 4 inches high and 1000 calories!  I resisted, but they sure looked good.  

Out of town a ways there was a Column of Justice along the road - no explanation.  We talked about what it might be for...a memorial for the lawyers in town,  a warning to would be thieves, a place where criminals were shot or hung?  Just don't know, but is was kind of pretty as the sun was rising right behind it.  Near the town of Ciruena there was a very nice golf course and club house, the first we have seen.  The apartments in the immediate neighborhood were very nice, but only some of them were lived in.  Several complexes around were empty...looks like a development that went bad in the crash of 2008.  Then we came to the old part of town and it was very run down, dirty, and sad.  Soon after we left that town we saw our first hops growing along the road.  Maybe we are entering beer country, I don't know....

We talked about some of the little graces God gives us.  In our busy lives we often miss them, but on this long quiet walk, we are more in tune with them.  One I enjoyed today was a little red wildflower along the road.  It looked like mini poppies.   They were very sweet among all the thistles and weeds...and red is my favorite color.

Another thing we talked about was how we immediately want to throw away anything we won't use again....a tissue, a city sightseeing map, a grocery bag with a hole in it, an apple core.  We want to get ride of anything that will add weight to our packs.  How I wish I were more sensitive to getting rid of those little things I do day to day that are offensive, unkind, unnecessary.  My own burdens would be lighter if I just laid them down....ask for forgiveness and move on with a lighter, happier heart.

We got into Santo Domingo de Calzada at 11:00 and got our packs in line to get into a small private Albergue called Abadia Cisterciense - a tranquil little hostel run by Cistercian nuns in the old quarter of town on Calle Mayor (main street).  It didn't open until noon so we chatted with others waiting and ate our lunch.  It was well worth the wait.  It is neat and clean with good facilities.  We are in a room with three regular beds.  Tom from Arizona is sharing the room with us and he doesn't think he snores but said we could shove him if he did!  There is a peaceful shaded terrace and garden off the eating area.  Really a nice change from some of the larger places we have stayed.  

Santo Domingo is named for a man in the 11th Century they called Saint Dominic of the Road.  He dedicated his life to improving the physical route for the pilgrims and was responsible for building many of the roads and bridges on The Way.  Those original roads and bridges have all been rebuilt, but his spirit is alive.

My feet felt normal today...I hope they are on the mend and that I won't have trouble again.  I didn't have any trouble with all the up and down we walked today.  I really do think we are pretty well broken in and ready for the rest to come.

We had a pretty sunrise, lots of rolling hills with mountains in the distance, and one incredible 360 degree view...we could see for miles and miles. It doesn't get old...rather better and better...tho I do think that first day over the mountain will always be the most memorable.


Column of Justice


Massive grain fields all along the way...
The first golf course we saw...
Seems to be well maintained.  



The only hops we saw...

Pretty little red flowers that encouraged me along the way...sort of looked like mini poppies.
Most Albergues don't open until noon.  This day we arrived early, got our packs in the que, and ate some lunch while we waited for it to open.  It's a common sight!
A government building on the town square.
One of the church towers actually stands on its own...

2 comments:

Loiclan said...

I am giving a presentation at our church Sunday morning. One of the things I am going to talk about is the backpack and how pilgrims would get rid of things in it to make it lighter. Just as in life we carry more than we need and life would be better if we just lighten our backpacks. God bless you both.
Buen Camino!

florence said...

Love all God's lessons He is revealing to you and you are sharing with us. It feels like there's a really good book here on so many levels. As you walk daily, I took my first very fragile step with a cane today. As you can imagine, you inspire me. Peace and love