Enjoying God's Goodness: On our way...

The final approach...yesterday we had breakfast with Jon and Meta, prayed together, and the took off for our Camino Adventure. They agreed to mail a box to Santiago with our "regular clothes" and some comfortable shoes, as well as some other everyday supples. We drove to Pamplona (about two hours) to turn in our rental car...had a huge God sighting in the process. Our Google Maps directions got us to town, but then had confusing directions. We turned around twice and I prayed, "Lord, we need a little help here!" At the next stop I said, "Turn right here....I think this goes to the city center where the Enterprise office is located." BINGO...a gas station to fill the tank. I went in to ask for directions while Andy worked at the pump. BINGO....the Enterprise office was right around the corner - so we turned it in on time and got directions to walk to the bus station which was about 10 minutes away. How great is that? Got our tickets for a two o'clock bus to St. Jean Pied de Port, France, an old city that dates back to the late 1500's/early 1600's.

We had some time so we walked around an old fortress that is in a very pretty park right next to the station. Had time for a very good grilled chicken sandwich on a baquette....very tasty and a nice change from ham which is quite popular here. There were probably 30 to 40 other pilgrims on the bus with us...about a two hour drive to go about 60KM.

Many of the towns and homes we drove through reminded us of Germany...white stucco homes with wood trim and flower boxes full of geraniums. It was uncanny and fun at the same time.

It was an exciting ride up, down, and around mountains on narrow two lane roads...very, very close to drop offs of hundreds of meters and very, very close to oncoming traffic. While on this ride I found myself wondering, Just what am I getting myself in to for the next two months????

The town was full of pilgrims and tourists when we got there. We made our way up a huge cobblestone street in the old walled city to the pilgrim office where we got our pilgrim passports and made arrangements to stay in an old Refuge for pilgrims just up the street. 8 euros for a bunk bed in a room with only 3 bunk beds plus breakfast...a good deal. It was just up the street right next to the city gate. A little old French lady was there to greet us...could not speak or understand a word of English, but we got along. Most of the little places, we are told, are run by volunteers. The place was old but well maintained, newly painted and very clean. The pillows were provided with sheets nicely pressed, crisp and clean. Very comfortable. We shared the room with two girls from the States, a old guy who never said a word, and a young man who had already hiked the Camino from Belgium, starting 1 month ago.

We went for dinner and walked around the old town area....visited the very old fortress from the 1600s when France and Spain were at war. It was beautiful...high on a hill and connected to the city wall. I can see why so many tourists come to the area.

We slept well...lights out by 9:30, no one snored, and we all pretty much woke up between 6:00 and 6:30 when breakfast started. It was like a party around the table...everyone anxious to begin. We met two young men from Brazil who are biking the Camino...I cannot imagine! Also met a young couple from New England who hiked the entire Allegheny Trail a couple of years ago. The breakfast was simple but tasty...fresh bread and jam.

We left right at 7:00, before the sun came up. Many consider this first day up and over the Pyrenees to be the hardest day, so we wanted an early start. The trail most of the morning was on a road so it was not hard to follow in the dark. It was challenging the first 5 miles....we went up over 4000 feet in elevation. The views and vistas were stunning. We could see for miles and miles and miles - panoramic views. When the sun came up the peaks were orange. A little bit later there was fog in the valleys and the mountains in the distance looked black. In the end, much of the low land was trees and the high land was shrubs and dirt. We saw hundreds of sheep, including black faced sheep, lots of horses, and lots of cows. All were just grazing - no fences. Some of each of the kinds of animals had large bells around their necks - reminded us of Switzerland.

We were grateful for a warm, sunny day with clear skies. Over the course of the day we hiked through orchards, an Alpine meadow, and beech woods. The last stop for food and water was 5 miles up. It had been challenging and we were sweating, so we stopped to eat the buns and apples we bought at a grocery store last night, along with lots of water. It had taken us 2 hours. We started off again...facing another 850 feet in elevation gain. It was a bit easier and was broken up with a delightful walk through a canopy of beech trees for quite some distance...nice to be out of the sun.

The last 5k down the mountain was tough on our feet and knees...really steep. A kind man offered me one of his walking sticks and that helped me, but not Andy. We got down to the town at 2:30 after walking 6 1/2 hous with 2 nice long breaks. Felt pretty good overall...encouraged it wasn't as hard as advertised! Grateful for that. When we got to the bottom we were greeted by some kind Christians who gave us a very small compact devotional - about 3 X 3 with devotions for each day of the Camino...mostly verses with themes like, I need your help today, be with me...ending the book with a Gospel message. Really well done!

The place we are staying tonight is run by the Catholic Church right next door. It is new in the last couple of years and very nice - they can accommodate 400 pilgrims. You have to put your shoes/boots in a room on the first floor - not allowed to be upstairs because of the SMELL! The floors are lined with cubbies, 2 bunks to a cubbie. large bathrooms are at the end of each floor with toilets, sinks, and private showers. Very nice and clean.

We took our showers right away and got into our clothes for tomorrow which we sleep in tonight. That way, you can just get up and go! Three restaurants within walking distance offered pilgrim dinners for 9 Euro...soup, fresh fish (head, skin, and tail all present and accounted for), French fries, yogurt for dessert. We sat with a gal from Holland and three people from Italy...had lots in common since we have been to Holland and Italy several times. Only one from Italy knew English but the gal from Holland did as well. Was very nice.

After dinner there was a Mass at the church to give a blessing to Pilgrims. The singing and organ music were wonderful and worshipful, otherwise we couldn't understand much. Still glad we went.

Andy and I had hoped to talk more along the way, but today was a day to concentrate on breathing and putting one foot in front of the other. We did meet one young man named Michael from NYC who had walked the Camino through Spain last year. He was back this year to walk through France AND Spain, talking pictures for a book about the Camino. We had an interesting conversation. He was young and in good shape - carrying 40 pounds (mostly camera equipment) like it was nothing!

Lots to be grateful for today. We are thinking we will sleep well again tonight...tho I think there will be a lot more snoring going on. I am thinking I will put in ear plugs AND wear the little winter cap with ear covers! Lights out at 10:00!

All for now or I will be caught in the dark!