We were walking through Burgos to the outskirts of town for about 2 miles or so. We walked through a couple of nice parks with fountains and sculptures and statues but it was too dark yet to see much or to take pictures. The walk was pretty ordinary as we left town, but it was nice and flat the first half of the 13 miles for today.
We came to the little town of Tarjados mid morning and were greeted by a very pretty stone cross at the edge of town. We stopped at a cafe and found a small bathroom on the 2nd floor, but it did have tp, hand soap, and even paper towels to dry our hands....many do not have any of this. We have been grateful for the open and generous hearts of the Spanish people. They do not rush you when you are eating. You must always ask for the check...they expect you to linger (and do not expect tips). When pilgrims come to the little outdoor cafes they do not expect you to buy something...you are welcome to stop for a rest and to eat your own food. And, they allow yu to use the restrooms even when you do not eat.
I have noticed that things like Coke and ketchup taste differently than they do in the States. Well, this morning I had a Kit Kat and it tasted just like home! Oh, the little joys of life on the road. When we left town, we walked a couple of miles to Rabe de las Calzados and then the trail turned right and started our climb up up up once again - probably a couple of miles (it felt like four or five at the time). It was not steep, thankfully, so I was not sucking air, but it was long. The weather was ideal -" sunny and warm but with a nice breeze to keep us cool. We were in short sleeves. At the top it was a steel decent to the bottom and a couple more km into the city of Hornillos del Camino.
In the very first block of this medieval village there was a fairly new Albergue El Alfar de Hoenillos. We stopped to check it out and decided to stay rather than going to the larger minicipal one in the city center. It is clean and nice with only about 24 guests. The owner, Santi y Pili, doesn't speak any English but thinks you know Spanish...but we got registered and decided to eat here with other guests for supper...looks like a nice meal.
Right down the street was a fairly new grocery store that has a good deal going...and caters to the needs of Pilgrims. He had small bars of soap, you could buy single razors and one little carton of yogurt (instead of a four pack), small bags of nuts...every little convience you could want. The store owner doesn't speak English but understood everything we wanted and gave us a big smile. Really welcoming and friendly despite the language barriers.
On the trail today, my right shin continued to hurt a bit as we walked, but not nearly like the day we walked into Burgos. A German Pilgrim recommended some jell from the pharmacy...it has ibprofin in it. We got some yesterday and it seemed to take the edge off. Every little bit helps.
I seemed to be thinking a lot about pilgrims of old and the difficulties they must have had. My problems seem pretty small in comparison, but I still seemed to find myself praying, "Lord, have mercy on me!" Quite often on the way up and down that big hill/little mountain. We are entering the high plateau area of central Spain called the Meseta. We will be on this now for several days. It is the breadbasket of Spain...lots and lots of grain crops, a little flatter ground, and little cover from the sun.
It's about 4:00 right now. My wash is done for the day and I think I will wander down to the city
square. Well, I am back and there was a lot to see and explore , even tho the city is only ONE street wide and half a mile long. It has not changed much since medieval times! There were a lot of old homes with unusual doors, coats of arms, and different stones/bricks. There is an old church, sadly a pretty cemetery that was badly overgrown with weeds, and a usual section of town with underground caves. These underground storage areas - wines, cellars, houses, hideouts - I don't know what they were used for, but it was interesting to imagine. Old doors, steps leading down...I didn't dare go down to investigate, but quite intriguing.
We had supper with about 12 other guests staying here...the meal was served outside under a cover at tables...still was a bit chilly. They served mixed salad, a hot and tasty rise dish with beef, peaches or yogurt for dessert with wine and water. The conversation was lively and fun. We sat with 2 German young adults, a couple of Canadians, and a French woman. Lots of stories about visits to each of these countries and experiences along the Camino. It would be great to do this more often but not many places offer dinner.
It is almost bedtime but a friend asked a few questions about walking and talking. When it is flat and fairly easy to walk we do talk some...about what we are seeing along the way and how we are feeling about the experience. I think we both thought we would talk more, but we find it is a companionable quiet much of the time as we pick our steps (there are lots and lots of rocky spots, plus the uphill and downhill challenges). We talk more over meals, especially at night. Sometimes we walk and talk with others, but some are walking alone and seem to want to be alone, others are traveling in groups and seem to be enjoying a party all the tome, some are in a big hurry, others are taking their time. Each one seems to have their own rhythm or gate.
There is more conversation and interaction at the little outdoor cafes during breaks and meals...meeting up with people you have met before, been in an Albergue with earlier, or meeting new friends. It is different every day. We are both thinking about the past, praying for the needs of friends and relatives, and contemplating the future....but it seems like there is so much going on around you and with the journey itself. Not sure that makes complete sense to others...it just is what it is. We are enjoying being with one another...it doesn't seem like to much togetherness. Often Andy walks ahead of me, as I take pictures and lag behind.
In some way sit is a very personal journey as you face your own physical challenges, thoughts, and prayers. Some have told us I gets easier as you go along and you body adjusts to the physical demands and the blisters settle down. We shall see how that works in the next couple of weeks.
Very nice, small and clean with meals provided
Up on the hill - homes or storage - I know not,
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