Enjoying God's Goodness: San Juan de Ortega

San Juan de Ortega is a very small place but has bus loads of people coming to visit each day. San Juan was a disciple of Santo Domingo and was well known for his great works to serve the pilgrims...building bridges, churches, hospitals and hostels in the Burgos region. This little town was a wild and isolated place and was dangerous and difficult for the pilgrims. He founded the Monastery here in 1150, followed by the church. Pilgrims have been staying here overnight for hundreds of years. It is somewhat primitive and very simple but it was cool to stay in a parish hostel with so much history and where so many like us have stayed...medieval and modern pilgrims alike! San Juan is buried in a simple stone sarcophagus in the church. I went to a pilgrim mass and blessing in the church before dinner when we were there.

We were on the trail from 6:30 to 11:30, going 16 1/2 miles in that time. We were really moving because about 200 stayed in Belorado on Friday night and they were all headed that way with only 70 beds available for the night. Early in the morning it was cool and windy....the first time I wished I had my little fleece cap....but it was on the bottom of the backpack I didn't want to dig it out. Later it turned warm and sunny and we appreciated the oak woods and the pine forest that provided shade for us.

We stopped early on in Espinosa del Camino for coffee and a potato tortilla...a warm breakfast tasted good. Through the morning we saw lots of sunflowers and several farmers in their fields plowing up the ground. Then it was a long gradual climb to a ridge that we walked along for miles. From the description in the guide we expected 3 peaks, but there was basically one 1500 foot ascent. There was a Monumento de los Caidos at the top....fallen soldiers in the Spanish Civil War. Fortunately the descent was fairly easy and then...San Juan appeared at the bottom. We were glad to see it so soon. As it ended up, we wouldn't have had to walk so fast...we were fourth in line to sign in at the Albergue. Quite a few pilgrims went on further beyond San Juan. Hope we don't feel the pressure to make that kind of dash to the finish line very often...fortunately there was pretty scenery we could enjoy but not many other things to keep us from moving on.

Getting there so early really gave us an afternoon off. The one complex was all there was to see. No WiFi either. I sat out in the sun and talked with various people who happened along. Even carried on a conversation (sort of in French) with 3 older ladies eating their lunch who had come on one of the bus tours. Also met a couple from Sweden...they were interested in my story of my grandparents immigration from Sweden and our visit to Sweden to visit relatives.

I enjoyed thick lacy ferns and pretty heather cheering me on as we went along the ridge. I am noticing that my prayers along the way are simple and direct...
Protect Julie
Heal Neil
Encourage Sue

So much effort is put into the physical aspects of the walk....going uphill, watching for rocks, making sure you don't twist an ankle, eating an apple, getting water bottles from the pack....putting on your polartec fleece...taking off your polartec fleece, blowing your nose...going down hill....

The Bar Marcela (the only cafe in town) had a dinner seating at 6:30 and another at 7:30. We had a delightful conversation with a woman from Ireland and another from Germany...both on the Camino alone. They felt it was safe and they are loving it. They served blood pudding, salad, and a fried flaky crust folded over tuna. It has a name but I am not remembering it right this minute. We lingered at the table...then went up to the dorm and pretty much went to bed. I fell right asleep....until about 4:00 am when I was awaken by nose noises. UGH - what a way to end the day.