We left at 6:40 this morning, wanting to finish this segment before the afternoon sun. Yesterday it got into the high 80s by about 3:00. We walked in the dark for almost 1 1/2 hours....sunrise is getting later and later...no time change till the end of October. The first hour or so we walked with Eric from Nebraska....seemed like a nice young man. He is going to start grad school in 2014. So he did a bike ride on Route 1 from Canada to Mexico earlier this summer. Now he is with his Mom helping make her 30 year dream to do the Camino a reality. What a guy.
The Roman Road was good in many places but hard on the feet with rocks in other places. We walked 15.2 miles, about 10 of them on the Calzada Romana. We got off at Reliegos, a little town about 1 click off the trail to eat an early lunch at a funky (some call it trendy) cafe called Bar La Torre with a colorful proprietor. Felt good to get off our feet for about 1/2 hour. We had stopped once at a little oasis of poplar trees along a pretty little river....no benches, just the side of the bridge to sit on. That's one thing they need more of on the Camino...benches/rest stops, especially in the areas where there are not little towns.
We got into Mansilla de las Mulas (hand on the saddle of the mules) at about 12:15 and got settled into Albergue El Jardin del Camino. It is probably the most commercialized one we have stayed in but there are only 2 in town and this seemed to have better facilities. They have a wonderful huge patio area with lots of green grass. It's warm and the sun is beating down, but I am under a large canopy and a nice breeze is blowing. The only detractor is the FLIES. Since we have been in this breadbasket region, the flies have been bothersome. Reminds us of the pesky flies we often had on the White Iris!
After a shower and the wash I took a walk around town. It is pretty good size...a couple thousand. Two different squares had open markets this morning and they were cleaning up the mess left behind.
The town has two gates - one by the old quarter where the pilgrims entered the town called Puerta de Castillo and another one that welcomes visitors coming on the Calzada Romana called Arco de Santa Maria. The 12th Century medieval wall still attempts to protect the town from the encroachment of the modern day.
Dinner and breakfast are included at this hostel, so we won't need to wander around to find a place to eat or purchase supplies for tomorrow. Leon is only 11.6 miles away - our next stop. Much of the way is along a busy and dangerous highway, lots of manufacturing, cement and asphalt to walk on, not very well marked....probably the worst and least interesting section of the Camino. We are considering taking a bus. One writer says, "A walking pilgrim requires nothing more than a simple path and respect for the ancient Camino - both are in short supply around Leon."
Along the way today Andy and I talked about these three weeks on the Camino and what an amazing time it has been. We are grateful we are doing it at this time. The popularity of the Camino is growing rapidly. This is the busiest September ever. More and more people are finding there is no lodging for them when they arrive in town, especially if it is late in the day. Next year the Pope is going to visit Santiago...the first Papal visit in quite some time, we understand. They are expecting record crowds on the Camino all season. It may take some time before the local communities can improve services, add cafes and hostels, and be really prepared for the Pilgrims who are coming their way.
We are awed that we have been able to find places to stay every day so far - every time we actually picked out a place we thought looked good, we were able to get in. Other times we have just stopped at the first one we came to and found it was unique, historical, or just very nice. The three pensions have been just fantastic little places...none of the proprietors spoke English but we have gotten along just fine and enjoyed their hospitality...as well as their clean private bathrooms. I know I talk about that a lot, but it has been a challenging aspect of the trip. We have had several laughs over the crazy situations we have experienced! God has given us a spirit of humor and flexibility.
When you are completely dependent on God each day for daily food, a place to lay your head,
directions, good health, grace in the pain....the list is endless...you tend to be so much more aware of His presence, His provision, His faithfulness...and you more easily express your gratefulness. We thought we knew how to do it....we are learning it over and over again.
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